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Tom Colicchio hovers over a farm table abutting the open kitchen in his Italian restaurant Vallata, calling out orders for sea urchin and whistling to the Motown hit “The Tears of a Clown” piping through the restaurant. A guest chef from Italy is cooking for a Valentine’s Day pop-up, and Colicchio, 60, who rarely works evenings anymore, is monitoring the dishes as they make th…
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